Fall Brewing Schedule - How to Make a Last Minute Christmas Beer

Fall Brew Schedule

How to Make a Last Minute Christmas Beer

Summer is gone and Fall is upon us. It's time to brew dark, big ABV and holiday beers.

In the following article I will address Christmas Beers, along with a recipe formulation. I know it's late to brew a big ABV Christmas Beer, but you can compensate so as not to require aging.

First, the available time before the next holiday is a major factor. I'm writing this towards the end of October, which gives you about 1 1/2 to 2-months before Christmas and the New Year.

Because big ABV beers need time to mature, you will need to stay with low ABV beers. Most Ales will be ready for Christmas if started now. Big ABV beers, Sours and other beers that need aging should consider brewing in December or January for next years holiday.

A Winter Seasonal Beer under 30C of the BJCP Beer Style Guidelines suggests holiday spices, specialty sugars, brown sugar and spices that are reminiscent of mulling spices or Christmas holiday desserts. I would suggest considering wood chips plain or soaked in rum, bourbon or whiskey, orange peel, cherries, figs, chocolate (a favorite of mine) and spices.

The base beer can be a American Barley wine, Belgium Strong, Belgian Dark Strong, Porter, Stouts, wheat, American or English Brown. However, as noted earlier, keep the ABV low enough to avoid aging the Beer. It's very important that there is only a hint of spices and fruits so as not to overwhelm the beer's malt flavors.

The following is a list of spices and fruits used in commercial and home-brewed examples of Christmas Beers:

Spices for Winter Ales include:

Allspice
Cardamom
Cinnamon
Clove
Coffee
Coriander
Ginger
Grain of Paradise
Nutmeg
Vanilla

Fruits for Winter Ales include:

Orange Peel

Cherries
Blackberries
figs

Other:
Pine
Cocoa Chocolate
Toffee
Bourbon Barrel (Bourbon soaked chips)
Rum Barrel (Rum soaked chips)

Commercial Examples of Christmas Beers

The following are commercial examples I enjoy:

Anchor Steam Brewery in San Francisco makes a Merry Christmas & Happy New Year Ale. Although it is only 5.5%, the beer and it's wintery flavors are bold, including pine, cinnamon, nutmeg and chocolate. Bob Brewer (Head Brewer at Anchor Steam Brewery) brought a couple cases to my club, the Maltose Falcons, when we won Club of the Year in 2013. It's a fun beer to drink.

Goofy pic of me at Anchor Steam in front of the Mash Tun

St. Bernardus Christmas Ale at 10% ABV with typical Christmas spices. The Ale is dark as chocolate, malty without being too sweet.

Troeg's The Mad Elf Holiday Ale is an American Strong Ale that clocks in at 11%. This beer has a big cherry flavor component along with chocolate and malty sweetness. However, making beers this strong will require aging.

Ommegang's Adoration is a Belgian Strong Ale that is 10% and coriander, cardamom, mace and grains of paradise, with a hint of sweet orange peel.

Christmas Beer Recipe Formulation

The Base Beer:

In my recipe formulation, I want a base beer that is dark, malty sweet, and I want to avoid the harsh tannin's from dark grain husks and big hoppy beers. Therefore, I will avoid Stouts, sours and IPA's, and consider either a Brown, Porter, Black Lager or a Saison. In this recipe formulation, I will use a Porter recipe as the base beer, which has won 1st place in multiple competitions due to it's dark color and it's close kinship to a stout, but doesn't have the harshness of roasted barley.

Hops, Spices and Fruits

When I think of Christmas spices I think of chocolate, cinnamon, allspice, and nutmeg, all balanced in harmony.

Base Malt

I like the 2-row and Munich Malt combination, and think it would marry well with the yeast, hops and spices. I added a small amount of wheat malt to stabilize the foam due to the addition of cocoa, which has oils that will degrade the foam at time of pour.

Crystal Malts

Crystal malts should be used based on its flavor. For a porter, I believe that the 80°L crystal malt is the most appropriate due to its pronounced caramel, slight burnt sugar and raisins.

Other Additions through blending spices:

I think that Bourbon is appropriate for this beer. I'll soak wood chips in Bourbon and add them to the secondary. To avoid making your beer taste like sawdust, flash boil the wood chips for 30 seconds prior to soaking them in Bourbon. It appears to have worked well in previous beers, but I'm still experimenting with this method. I added brown sugar to thin the beer a little and to get slight molasses flavor.

ABV

I should be able to get 6.0% to 6.5% ABV without aging. This is dependent upon the health of the yeast and temperature control.

Yeast

Think of yeast as the Engine pulling a train. It does all the work and requires enough energy to pull through the fermentation. If you are not aware, or have ignored it previously, you must have an adequate amount of yeast bodies, nutrients and Oxygen. A 1-Liter starter with one vial or smack pack of yeast fermented at 1.04 OG on a stir plate, or swirl starter every couple hours, is the minimum required for a clean fermentation.

It is my opinion that too much yeast is better than too little. I have used multiple trillion cells in a simple 6 gallon brown ale that fermented out within 48 hours and it came out clean without any flaws. On previous occasions, when I was new to brewing, I used one pack, period. It took almost two weeks and it didn't ferment out completely and suffered multiple flaws. Take my advice if you're new to brewing, focus on the health of yeast for clean professional tasting beer.

For my Christmas Beer I plan on using a California Lager Yeast I previously used at Ale temperatures from a previous batch. I estimate it to be several trillion cells. You can use an American Ale Yeast with a 1 Liter starter to keep the beer clean.

The Last Minute Christmas Beer Recipe

All Grain Recipe - (Check back later for the extract recipe)
12.00 lb.   2-Row Barley Malt
2.00   lb.   Munich Malt
0.25   lb.   Wheat Malt

Hop Schedule
0.25   oz.  Columbus pellet 13% AA (60 Minutes)
0.50   oz.  Columbus pellet 13% AA (20 Minutes)
0.50   oz.  Columbus pellet 13% AA (0 Minutes)

Malts and Additions added at end of boil (flame-out):
0.75   lb.   80° L Crystal Malt
0.75   lb.   Chocolate Malt
0.50   lb.   Special Roast (not roasted barley) or Victory Malt (both considered biscuit malts)
2.00   lb.    Dark Brown Sugar
0.25   lb.    Cocoa powder
0.50   Tsp. Cinnamon
0.50   Tsp. Allspice
0.50   Tsp. Nutmeg

Note: Do not mistake "roasted barley" for "special roast." Roasted barley is harsh tasting and is most appropriately used in stouts. Some brewers have used it in other styles, but do a cold soak and add it to the boil at flame out. However, it's still harsh. Stay with Victory, Special Roast or other biscuit type malts.

The Crystal, Chocolate and Biscuit malts are added at the end of the boil (or, better yet, a cold soak the night before then added to end of boil, or flame-out) to avoid harsh tannin's from the grain husks, resulting in a mellow, balanced tasting beer. The only downside is the lower efficiency of these malts.
However, lower efficiency can be compensated by adding 25% of the total "flame-out" grain weight  (in the form of 2-row barely malt) to the base malt grains at flame-out (2lb. flame out grains x 25%=.50 lb additional base malt). e.g., figure out the weight of the grains added at flame out. In this case it's 2 lb. Multiply by 25%, which equates to 0.50 lb. Now, weigh out the 0.50 lb in 2-row (base malt) and add it to the existing base malts, increasing the efficiency and compensating for lower efficiency of the grains added at flame-out. Sorry if that's confusing, hopefully I explained it correctly.

For a maltier and bigger mouth feel, consider taking 2-quarts of the base malts during mashing and boil them for "melanoidins," which creates a bigger mouth feel and a rich maltier sweetnes than regular mashing. Be sure not to scorch or burn it. If so, throw it out and start again. Scorched or burned barley malt is rancid and will ruin the beer.

Mash Schedule

1. Mash in grains on 5 gallons of water at 162°F for a final mash temp of 154°F. Hold 60 Min.
2. Lauter the wort to the boiler and Boil 90 minutes
3. Add hops per schedule during the boil
4. Add hops, malts and spices at end of boil per schedule
5. Cool and move to a fermenter
6. Add yeast
7. Hold until fermentation is close to ending and either hold or move to secondary.

Fermentation

I'll ferment at 65°F ambient temperatures because the heat generated from the yeast will push it to approximately 68°F during fermentation. You can allow the temperature to increase after 48 hours of strong fermentation.

Clearing

You will need to filter or clarify the beer. The cocoa, cinnamon and other ingredients have hard particles that will not mix into the beer and will settle out of solution at the bottom of your keg or bottles. It's very harsh if you get a mouth full when you pour your first several beers.

There you go, last minute Christmas Beer. If you make this beer, be sure to respond with a taste test. No matter, if good, bad or indifferent.

Thank You and Cheers,

David Lester


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Spring and Seasonal Homebrewed Beers For The Month of March

It's March and Spring has Sprung. It's time to decide what you are going to brew the next 30 to 60 days. Yes, the weather is starting to change, it's going to get warm, trees and plants will bear fruit and we will once again begin brewing lighter beers for family, friends and ourselves.

We're done with the snifter full of big 12% Barley Wines, Octoberfests and Marzens. Big beers just doesn't seem right now that it's starting to warm up. Now is the time to make refreshing Ales and Lagers. However, don't fold up your proverbial Snuggie Blanket just yet. Certain beer styles that require aging will require some forethought and planning. So, let's make plans before you race off to look up your next lawn mower beer recipe.

If you want a big winter warmer that's aged 6 to 8 months, being that it's already March, you should

setup to brew one now. You can't brew a big beer a month before Octoberfest or December for winter consumption. In fact, January through May is the season to brew big beers for consumption within 9 to 12 months. Brewing big beers now will give your beer a chance to age nicely, with the consideration of aging over some wood or in a barrel. Big beers are also good for long term aging, which can be brewed anytime if long term is the intent.

Aged big beers to consider for consumption include Marzens and Octoberfest for August/September, and Imperial Stouts, Barley Wines and Scotch Ales for December/January. However, as of today, we are running late on styles that require more than 9 months aging. Unless, it is for competition, not consumption.

Competition season is a consideration for this months brewing. If you entered the National Competitions with the American Homebrewers Association, you've already brewed several of your favorite beers hoping for that big win, and maybe even a Ninkasi Award. For competitions with due dates in June and July, most Ales and Lambics should be brewed March through April. However, beers that require long term aging, now is the time to brew next years competition winning big beer.

Other beers to start in March for consumption and competition within the next 30-90 days include Pale Ales, Pilsners, Stout, IPA's, Lambics, Kolsch, Bocks, Maibock, Munich Helles/Dunkles, American Lagers and pretty much anything Ale and light, as opposed to a big beer.

Since IPA's are best consumed young, brewing in March will be best for consumption and competitions due in May/June. Lagers will require a lagering period, therefore a finished Lager would be ready for competition June or July depending on when you start and how quickly your yeast will finish out.

It's time to schedule your brewing for consumption and competitions. Good luck and feel free to post your responses.

Cheers,

How to re-use beer bottles for beginners

Many beer bottles can be re-used for home brewed beer, sodas and even wine. This is a great way to save on the bottom line when making your own beers, soda's and wine. As an alternative, you can purchase new beer bottles at any homebrewing supply store, but adds to the base cost of your beer. I estimate that homebrewing beer costs around $0.40 to $0.60 per 16 oz serving (except Hoppy IPA's and High ABV beers). However, include a bottle at $0.50 each and your cost is now the same as purchasing a beer at the store.

How to choose beer bottles for re-use

The type of bottle that you can re-use is important. First, the typical beer bottles have two types of caps; screw top and clamp on (not sure of the term for "clamp on," so hopefully your still following). You can't re-use the screw top bottles. That's because there are no caps available for them, or at least that I know of as of the date of this publication.

The second issue is glass vs. plastic bottles. If you insist on using plastic bottles, it is my opinion that short

term use is fine. However, plastic has a degree of oxygen absorption, which can oxidize the beer and make it dull and cardboard-ish tasting. But, for those of us that use our bottles every 30 days, it is my opinion that oxygen absorption is not going to be an issue. In fact, I've seen some very famous home brewers use plastic Litre bottles for storage.

Bottles also come in clear and different colors. This is very critical when brewing beer, but not so critical for sodas. Beer is sensitive to light. That is because light can change the chemical properties of the beer (simple terms without going into detail). Some molecules within beer change when struck by light and morph into a new chemical compound that is similar to a skunks glands. That is why you will find some beers smell "skunky." That is meant literally, the beer has a slight smell of a skunk. Therefore, you need beer bottles that block light to avoid "skunking" your beer.

With that said; the best beer bottles are brown. You should avoid clear and green bottles if possible. If you choose the clear, green or plastic bottles (typically clear or green) and will require extra care to avoid skunking your beer. This is accomplished by keeping your bottles in the dark.

How to Remove the Label

Fill a bucket, sink or container full of hot water. Place the bottle in the hot water and allow to sit for 15-30 minutes. I like to use the back side of a knife to scrape off the label, but anything with a straight or slightly curved edge will work. After the label is off, place the Bottle back in the water to soak the remaining paper and glue. I typically use a scrub pad within a few minutes of soaking to wipe off the last remaining paper from the bottle.

How To Clean Beer Bottles for Re-Use

The following are basic steps for cleaning a beer bottle to re-use for your beer, soda or wine.

1. If you re-use your store bought beer bottles, be sure to rinse thoroughly immediately after consuming the beer. This will help avoid mold and bacteria growth.
2. To begin cleaning a beer bottle; physically inspect the interior of the bottle. Use a strong light and place the bottle in front of the light and inspect the interior for dark formations. If found, these spots are typically mold. If you find dark spots, put the bottle to the side along with any other bottles that show mold spots. These bottles will require extra scrubbing and an additional inspection after cleaning.
3. Fill the bottle a quarter way up with water, add a small amount of soap in the bottle and scrub the interior with a bottle scrubber. The bottle scrubber can be found at a homebrewing supply store. 
1. When you scrub a bottle that shows mold formations during the interior inspection, be sure to scrub, rinse, check again and repeat the scrubbing until there are no signs of mold and/or bacteria growth.
4. Thoroughly rinse the bottle with clean water and make sure there is no soap remaining in the bottle, which could be construed as a beer defect.
5. Rinse the bottle with a sterilizing solution that is often found at your homebrew supply store.
6. Immediately fill the bottle with new beer.
7. Cap the beer with a new cap (make sure you sterilize the cap first) using a caper, both found at a homebrew supply store.

The process is fairly simple. However, some of the steps require a bit of extra attention.

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How to Pasteurize Your Beer and Why?

How to Pasteurize Your Beer and Why

Pasteurization was discovered by Louis Pasteur (1822-95), a French chemist and bacteriologist, who invented the process of heating food, milk, wine, etc., to kill most of the micro-organisms in it; distinguished from sterilization, which involves killing all of them. 

The process is to elevate the temperature of food, wine or beer for a period of time that is sufficient to destroy certain microorganisms, as those that can produce disease or cause spoilage or undesirable fermentation of food, without radically altering taste or quality. The general rule is to hold at 163°F to kill most organisms.

Why pasteurize and how does this apply to home brewing? If there is any microorganism present in the beer, along with the unfermented sugars remaining in the beer, it will spoil. The result is a beer that may gush when opened due to the over fermenting of sugars that beer yeast can't process. In addition, harsh off flavors will be produced that will ruin the beer.

There is always a risk that microorganisms live in your home or garage that can infect your beer. However, due to the process of cleaning and sterilization, along with the antiseptic qualities of hops, most beers will be fine. 

The application of pasteurization is important for those that send their beers to competitions. Yes it is true that many beers are fine to send to competition without pasteurization. However, if you're like me, and want to win. Why not take the extra step and pasteurize your beer before sending it? The reason I believe the extra step is worth the effort is that I've seen a lot of beers that went sour at our clubs beer competition.


With that said, here is the process of pasteurizing your beer:

1. Place your bottles in your boiler kettle and fill with water about 3/4 way up the bottles side.
2. Open one of the bottles and place a thermometer in the bottle to track the temperature.
3. Start the fire on high and track the temperature. Your goal is to reach 165°F.
4. Turn off the flame at about 163°F and allow the temp to rise to 165° F.
5. Remove the bottles from the boiling kettle and allow to cool.
6. Recap the open bottle. BTW: It will foam during the heating, but don't worry it will be fine.

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How to Make Christmas Hard Cider With Mulling Spices

The following recipe is my Annual Christmas Cider that I bottle and gift every year. It's the perfect "sit by the fire" type of drink with a warming amount of alcohol. I only make this at Christmas since the spices are for the season.

This is a still cider, so there is no carbonation involved, and is meant to be warmed before serving. Do not allow the temp to get above 170°F, otherwise you will burn off the alcohol.

If you don't own brewing equipment, ferment juice in a gallon container like the one used for juice packaging. However, only fill 3/4 full and place foil over opening. But, don't put the cap back on. The fermentation will blow off the cap under pressure.

There are two cups of sugar, one white and the other dark brown, which will move the OG from around 1.03 to 1.055-1.06. The brown sugar only adds a slight fullness, or caramel flavor. But, definitely makes it better.

I use two vials of English Ale Yeast and nutrient so that it ferments out properly. This yeast strain leaves

some remaining sweetness and produces a slight fruitiness, which compliments the Cider.

The tea bags add a slight tanic flavor similar to wine. I use a pinch of Sulphate to preserve it from spoiling and possibly becoming a bottle bomb (gifts that explode are typically frowned upon).

I prefer Tanic Acid additions after fermentation has completed. Apples contain natural Tanic Acid, so using this type compliments the drink. I usually start with a teaspoon and work my way up from there. Don't skip this, it gives the Cider a nice bite, or tartness. Unfortunately, some apple juice is not very tart and needs some help. There are two steps as follows:

Primary fermentation-

3 Gal Apple Juice
1 Cup dark brown sugar
1 Cup white sugar
1 tsp nutrient
2 tea bags – Black tea (tanic additive)
2x Vial English Ale Yeast – White Labs WLP002
Bi-Sulphate, 1 pinch (1 gram)

 Secondary Fermentation - time to add the Christmas spices

When the primary fermentation has slowed, place the following spices in two cups of boiled water (low boil the water 20 minutes prior to adding the spices, which removes extra Oxygen molecules (allowing oxygen in your fermented cider will make it taste like cardboard). Make sure the spices are added at flame-out. You can add the water along with the spices. You will need a funnel, and make sure the orange pieces are small enough to easily pass through the carboy neck. Otherwise you'll be digging them out with a stick.

Here are the mulling spices:
3-5 Cinnamon sticks
1 Tblsp all spice
1 Tblsp Nutmeg
1/4 Orange, sliced into thin 1/4 sized pieces
1 Vanilla beans, cut and scrape

Post fermentation:
1 tsp +/- Tanic Acid (preferred), Phosphoric Acid, or other (add to taste).

OG: 1.057
FG: 1.01 to 1.02
ABV: 5-6%

Serving:
Serve warm with a stick of cinnamon and slice of orange.


Cheers and enjoy,

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How to Clean Beer Lines Cheap and Easy

Clean Beer Lines Cheap and Easy

How many of homebrewers actually clean the beer line? Until recently, like myself, probably not that often. When I first started kegging my beer, the beer line was cleaned by running new beer though it. I didn't know that dirty beer lines made my beer taste funky. This applies to any draft beer lines connected to a keg of beer.

Beer line at restaurants, bars, clubs etc is typically cleaned as often as weekly. In watching the process of cleaning the line at a bar, I noticed a lot of cleaning liquid flowing through the keg spout. So, where does that leave a homebrewer on a limited budget? I wanted a do-it-yourself project that used existing equipment and was quick and easy.

The challenge: Clean beer lines, including ones with debris and discolored lines. I found that if you let the lines soak in Oxyclean for an hour or two, it will clean the line to like new. Oxyclean is amazing at cleaning equipment. Beer, trub, hops and anything else is easily oxidized and cleaned out of the line.

If you clean on a regular base. It's as simple as Moving cleaning solution through the beer line. How to: A keg, cleaning solution (BLC Beer Line Cleaner by National Chemical) and CO2. It's that simple, and these are items readily available to a homebrewer.

Fill the keg with water and cleaning solution per the instructions, hook the beer line to the output and the CO2 to the input and let it flow. I think you should run at least a gallon of cleaning solution through each faucet. Follow up a second time with clean water to clear out the cleaning solution. It's that simple. I use a 3-gallon keg for cleaning my kegorator, but a regular keg work as well.


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Bourbon Style Eise (Ice) Beer at 30% ABV

Iced Beer is not a new style, but it is to me. I've just dived into this idea of freezing out the water and concentrating the alcohol and beer. Why not take this and have some fun with it? Like, make a ICE Rum, or a concentrated beer that tastes like a Barrel Aged Bourbon, right? I have heard of double and triple freezing. Can I do this? The answer is yes, yes I can.

Iced Beer means that the beer has undergone some degree of fractional freezing somewhat similar to the German Eis bock. These brands generally have higher alcohol content than typical beer. Fractional freezing is used in a process to separate substances with different melting points such as water and alcohol's melting points.

First and foremost, there's always someone that calls this illegal distillation. That is wrong, this is concentration through freezing. Distillation methods that are illegal requires fire, alcohol to be converted to a gas to separate it from the "beer," then converted back to a liquid to form a pure alcohol. The question has already been run by ATF (Alcohol Tobacco and Firearms), which said that freeze concentration is not distillation and that there are no laws against it. So, if you still think this is illegal, call ATF yourself and don't bother writing on this blog that it's illegal.

My first attempt to ice a beer was on a Wee Heavy at 10% ABV aged on wood. In addition, it was too simple of a recipe to win any competitions, which by the way didn't win a darn thing. However, the simple recipe is perfect for an Ice Beer. The only problem with a 10% beer is that it first has a "hot alcohol" bite like nail polish remover. It takes a while to mellow out. It is my opinion that anything over 10% ABV will require time.

When I first made the beer,  I let it sit for a year and it mellowed down. I took a gallon of the Wee Heavy and froze it solid. I turned the frozen beer upside down and within about 30-60 minutes I had a quarter gallon of what I believe to be 25-35% ABV! When Iced, the beer appeared to lose sweetness and tended to be dry, but perfect for Ice Beer.

My friends and I took our first sip of my Ice Beer. Holy crap it tasted awesome! It was like sipping on a nice Bourbon, seriously. My friends and I sat around and contemplated how we could make more and bottle it.

Think about ice beer vs. distillation this way: In distillation, you get a raw alcohol that has to be aged in a barrel to gain some flavor, which quite frankly, tastes like charred wood. Then water is added to bring down the ABV. On the other hand, Ice Beer has flavor built into it and unlike Distilled Spirits is ready to drink much sooner and tastes great.

My next attempt will be a Rum made with brown sugar.

Here is my original recipe:

09-E  Scottish and Irish Ale, Strong Scotch Ale (Wee Heavy)
Min OG:  1.070   Max OG:  1.130
Min IBU:    17   Max IBU:    35
Min Clr:    14   Max Clr:    25  Color in SRM, Lovibond

Recipe Specifics
----------------
Batch Size (Gal):          6.00    Wort Size (Gal):    6.00
Total Grain (Lbs):       17.60
Anticipated OG:          1.091    Plato:             21.78
Anticipated SRM:        18.7
Anticipated IBU:          25.7
Brewhouse Efficiency:   82 %
Wort Boil Time:            90    Minutes
Additional Boil:            Take one gallon of the wort and boil until close to a syrup consistency.


Pre-Boil Amounts
----------------

Evaporation Rate:      15.00    Percent Per Hour
Pre-Boil Wort Size:   10.91    Gal
Pre-Boil Gravity:      1.050    SG          12.40  Plato

Grain/Extract/Sugar

   %     Amount     Name                          Origin        Potential SRM
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
 96.6    17.00 lbs. Pale Malt (Maris Otter)       UK             1.038      4
  3.4     0.60 lbs. Roasted Barley                     USA            1.033    300

Hops
   Amount     Name                              Form    Alpha  IBU  Boil Time
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
  1.75 oz.    Fuggle                            Whole    4.75  25.7  60 min.

Yeast
-----
WYeast 1728 Scotish Ale


Water Profile
-------------
Profile:           Reverse Osmosis
pH: 5.2

Mash-out Rest Temp :         158  Time:  60
Sparge Temp :                     170  Time:  30


Update 5/1/14:
I have made a second batch of this Bourbon Style Eise Beer and will send the beer to a lab to test the ABV within a couple days.

First, I tried freezing a 5 gallon bucket, which turned out to be a challenge. The middle didn't want to freeze and the beer tended to concentrate in the remaining liquid. I chopped up the ice on sides of the buck allowing a more uniform freeze, but it was still a challenge. Never got more than a stiff slushy beer. Some of it froze hard, but it's not what I wanted. I suggest freezing in gallon containers, which will make it freeze easier and quicker.

Second, I put 20 wood cubes in the beer for a week prior to freezing. I suggest cutting that back to 5 to 8 Cubes. I think 20 was a but too much. Upon tasting I realized that the wood is a bit harsh tasting at first and will require several months to mellow out. This was true for my last beer also.

Third, I ended up with a little over a gallon after the first freeze. I was able to freeze the beer a second time concentrating the alcohol and flavors. I moved the beer to two containers and completed second freeze. It took several days due to the anti-freezing agent of the alcohol. However, it finally froze a cap at the top and I separated it out.

Fourth, I had to filter the beer due to a high amount of particulate matter in the beer. The beer came out beautifully clear and dark ruby red. 

My filter costs pennies and works great. I turn a Litre bottle upside down, cut off the bottom of the bottle. I take a normal paper towel and fold it into a one inch strip, then keep folding in one in increments until it reaches the other side of the towel. Next I move to one of the ends and start rolling the long one inch strip. I take the one inch wide rolled up paper towel and stuff it in the pouring spout of the litre bottle. You typically have to cut off a couple inches off the end and roll it back up to fit, but it should fit snugly in the spout. I turn the spout downwards and pour the beer into the container. It's slow and can take several hours, sometimes a whole day depending on several factors, but works great. 

Overall, it tastes damn strong. I am guessing around 30% ABV. I am sending a sample to a Lab for testing and will post it for your review when I get the results.


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